A black basalt effigy lies in a low curved alcove opposite the door. It is blurred by time, but the figure is perfectly straight and undamaged in appearance, as if the Crotach’s disabling at Bloody Bay (see above) had never happened. Above and around it are extraordinary carvings. Some are biblical, but there is also a depiction of the ancient symbol of the ‘icon of divine light’, a hunting scene, a castle, and – most unusually – a Birlinn, a large speedy galley, manned by a hundred oarsmen and used for criss-crossing the Minch, often in hot pursuit.
There are strange, apparently random pre-Christian carvings on the tower too, a bull’s head for example, and a fascinating ‘sheela-na-gig’. And in the churchyard are buried, in the rich soil, many another McLeod to whom this place was truly sacred.
The Isle of Harris Distillery in Tarbert, founded by the proprietor of Rodel House, offers one of the most distinctive distillery experiences in Scotland.
Visitors are greeted—as is proper, if unusual in distilleries—with a warming peat fire and a glass of whisky or gin, then shown around by friendly, knowledgeable staff, all deeply committed to the place and its products.
Isle of Harris Gin contains sugar-kelp seaweed, gathered by hand from sea-lochs, creating a distinctive maritime character. The Hearach is the first single malt whisky to be legally distilled on the island: made by hand in small batches in a splendid copper still, and matured for eight years in oak casks from Spain and Kentucky, it truly embodies the unique atmosphere and spirit of the island.
Tours can be arranged through Rodel House, and for our fully catered guests, a private behind-the-scenes tour is included in your stay.
guardian@rodelhouse.co.uk to book | Contact us
The Distillery Tweed, designed by a pupil in the Tarbert school and woven by one of the distillery team.
Harris Tweed remains a living craft on the island, with weavers still working at their looms in homes and workshops across Harris. The famous ‘orb’ trademark requires that the cloth be hand-woven on the Isle of Harris, continuing a tradition that has defined the island for generations.
At Drinishader, the Harris Tweed and Knitwear exhibition tells the full story of how subsistence weaving became a world-renowned industry, including the involvement of fashion icons like Zandra Rhodes. In Strond, a plaque commemorates the Paisley sisters, two weavers whose chance encounter with the Countess of Dunmore changed the island’s history.
Visits can be arranged to local weavers to watch the cloth being made on traditional looms, seeing first-hand the skill and rhythm that goes into every length of tweed. Several shops across the island sell Harris Tweed products, from jackets and caps to bags and accessories.
Gentle walks around the property and village reveal hidden treasures: the secret loch, clifftop paths to whale-watching points, or the abandoned settlement at Lingerbay where time stands still.
For those seeking more challenge, the hills await. Roineabhal and Stranndabahl offer dramatic ascents, while ‘The Postman’s Walk’ at Rheningidale and ‘The Coffin way’ provide historic routes across the island. For our fully catered guests, we’ll prepare a picnic hamper for longer expeditions.
The bay offers year-round opportunities for wildlife watching which changes with the seasons. Seals haul out on the rocks, otters fish at dawn and dusk, and herons stalk the shallows. Summer brings nesting arctic terns to the islands of Vallay, Flodday and Corr Eilean, their cries filling the skies. Spring sees sea eagles soaring overhead, newborn lambs dotting the fields, and the arrival of cuckoos.
Wild swimming is possible in both the clear waters of the harbour and the fresh waters of the loch.
guardian@rodelhouse.co.uk to book | Contact us
The west coast beaches are world-class: Scarista, Horgabost, and Luskentyre offer miles of white sand and turquoise shallows with views across to Pabbay and Taransay. On exceptionally clear days, you can see as far as St Kilda on the horizon.
Fly-fishing is available on the Obbe Fishery’s river and loch system from March through October. The island offers excellent sport for sea and loch fishing for salmon, sea trout, brown trout, among others, with some of the lochs also home to Arctic char.
Scarista Golf Club is one of Scotland’s most spectacular courses—a nine-hole links layout beside Scarista beach. The course plays across the machair where sheep graze the fairways, with white sand stretching along one side and the dramatic backdrop of Harris’s hills rising behind. Famous golfers including Nick Faldo and Ronan Rafferty have played here, drawn by its unique combination of natural beauty and testing golf. Clubs and trolleys can be hired at the course.
The tennis court at Bunavoneadar, approximately 35 miles north, is one of the most remote—and spectacularly sited—courts in the UK. Set against dramatic scenery overlooking West Loch Tarbert, with its foundation literally hewn from Harris rock, it’s available for hire every day except Sunday. We’re happy to arrange bookings.
Note on Activities: Many activities are seasonal and weather-dependent. Popular excursions like St Kilda require advance booking during summer months. We’re delighted to help arrange any of these experiences for you.